Sod the bus.

The barman's advice was as dispiriting as it was concise, "You're mad, get the bus." Having been well fed at Inish Fusion, it just so happened that the stroll back to my bed and breakfast took me past a bar called 'Annie's'; out of respect for my late Mum I felt obliged to pop in for a pint and a dram. "It's just the main road all the way from here, and bits of it can be dangerous. Sure, I make that commute every day." Having not written up the best leg so far because I'd gotten into a bit of a funk yesterday, it sounded like I had the dullest leg ahead of me: Moville to Derry. Better give yesterday a bit of a write up before I head off then.

It was the morning rain that probably contributed to my blue mood later in the day. It was forecast to be clearing, so I delayed setting off for half an hour or so. In a grey mizzle I made my way out of Carndonagh and most of the walking was along single-track country lanes. On the Sunday morning of a Bank Holiday Weekend I had the road more or less to myself and as I walked the greyness lightened, brightened, and the sky gradually blued. It was going to be a beautiful day.

A lot of this walk is going to be bordered by the sea, and my first glimpse of this companion came as the road curled down towards Tremone Bay. It felt like there was barely a breath of wind, but the waves kept whipping up and crashing down on the slick black rocks; I can only imagine how dramatic it must be on a wilder day. The road curled and twisted, rose and fell until I got to Gortnageeha Craig. Happy days! There I followed farm track up across the peaty headland and for several miles I was off road. I even saw a post giving directions along some trail for hikers! I even saw other walkers!! Wonder of wonders.

However, the hilliness of parts of the walk meant I was making slow progress at times. The beauty of the landscape meant that I was spending a little more time with my camera out too. Combine that with my late start and I ended up having to walk more than I'd have liked to have done in descending darkness. When the light dims and the temperature falls, I can find it a bit dispiriting at times. Every ache, of body and soul, can become a bit more accentuated. Sorry.

I made a little Instagram reel at Stroove Beach, where St Columba left Ireland and went into exile. I don't really have anything much to add to that, and you can find it here:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DFk6XlzN0a-/

This pilgrimage I'm making is about seeking change and growth in all sorts of different ways, and I'm delighted to report that some progress is being made. Those who know me best, know that actually I'm quite an introvert. My initial impression of the good people of Ireland is that introversion isn't so much of a thing here. On my first day in Derry the receptionist in the hotel wanted to know all about who I was and what I was doing. When I popped into Specsavers to get one of those tiny screwdrivers for my glasses, and the lady serving me drew me into the same sort of lengthy conversation, I could feel beads of sweat beginning to form on my brow! Well my dear friends, yesterday as I made my way down off the peat moor and towards Stroove I fell into a great converation about walking and Ireland with a stranger I met along the way... and I initiated the conversation. I know, I'm surprised as you.

I ended the day well fed and watered, and I got to speak to my amazing boys. All is well. So, sod the bus, I'm walking. Today is going to be a good day.

__________________________________________

Thanksgiving: If I had written up yesterday properly, I was going to give thanks to people from church who enabled me to take this time. Bishop Jane, Archdeacon Charles, and my colleagues at St Peter's, especially David, Tim, Chris, Margaret, Carolynne, Anthony, Richard, Tracy, Robin and many more.